My name is David Handley, I’m with the Universityof Maine Cooperative Extension, and we’re here to talk about how to prune and traina young grapevine. This is a vine that was planted last spring. We got it from a dormantplant, or rooted cutting, and you can see the original part of the planting right here.This is what we got from the nursery, with a good root system under it. We planted it,and we had a bud break and some vine growth. This is last year’s growth right here. Thiswas a green shoot. Typically, you may get more than one shoot developing. You may haveseveral buds on here. We want to prune this back to one strong vine, your strongest one.We’re going to arrange for that to be tied
up to a trellis, because this particular vineis what’s going to become our permanent trunk, or the permanent part of the plant that’sgoing to be with us for the life of the planting. We want to make sure it’s the strongest ofthe vines that we can choose from. Any other one that developed that’s very weak, we canjust cut that out, select our best one. The time of year to make these cuts are whenthe canes are dormant, and this is going to be really any time after the new year, untilthey bud out in late March, early April. We hope in the first year that we get enoughgood growth that we can tie it to the lower trellis wire.Typically here in Maine, we’re going to be
pruning to either a four arm kniffin trainingsystem, or an umbrella kniffin training system. Those trellises consist of two wires, oneset at about two and a half feet, and a second wire set at about five feet.We hope in the first year that we’re going to get enough good growth to reach at leastthe bottom wire, but in order to make sure it’s growing straight, you can see we supportedthis with a small bamboo pole. Any kind of planting stake will work, and we just tiethat vine up as it grows, rather than let it grow along the ground where it can getrot problems, and not develop a nice straight growth like we want. We tie it up, just likeyou’d tie up a beef steak tomato, get the
growth that you want.As I said, we’ve got pretty good buds here, reaching up to the first wire. You can seethat I actually make it to the top wire, but you can see the growth up here is very scrawnyand spindly, and isn’t really going to lead to a good, strong trunk. I’d rather actuallystart new growth for reaching to this top wire for next year.What that means is that I’m actually going to cut this off here, rather low, to try toget this bud here to break and give me a much stronger shoot to develop my trunk to thetop wire next year. I can just take that there, and then, instead of using the bamboo polethis year, I can just tie it to the wire.
This bud will hopefully break, and give mea good, strong shoot, that I’m going to reach the second wire next year. Of course, thesebuds lower down will also break, and if this one happens to be weak, I may select one ofthese. But, if this bud does turn out to be a strong shoot, I’ll be cutting these offnext winter and getting my single trunk back up to the top wire.Next year, when this does reach the top wire, eventually what we’ll be doing is taking oneyear old cane, and either draping it over this top wire and connecting it to the bottomwire in an umbrella kniffin, or we’ll be taking one cane at the top wire on each side, andone cane at the bottom wire on each side,
to create four arms of one year old growth,for a four\uc0\u8209 arm kniffin system. Both systems work pretty well for concretetype grapes here in a cold climate like Maine.
How to Grow Kiwi
Hi, I’m Tricia, an organic gardener. Today I’m going to plant a kiwi vine. Kiwis are originally from Asia, but did you know that you can plant one right here in North America in your backyard? One kiwi vine will produce 50 100 pounds of fruit! Site selection is important. You want to put kiwis in full sun, but you don’t want to plant them in any kind of cold microclimate, because even though they’re hardy down to zone 4, which is about 30 degrees below zero, they can get frost damage after they break dormancy.
They must have well drained soil. Dig a hole the same size as the root system. So we’re going to put the kiwi in the hole and we don’t wanna add any fertilizer. These roots can easily be burned bynitrogen. Plant the kiwi to the same level it was planted in the nursery. Don’t mound up the the soil around the trunk, because that can kill the vine. Kiwis are vines and they’re trained and prunedlike the Muscadine grapes, and if you’re only planting one like I am,make sure it’s self pollinating.
Pergolas, or a Tbar trellis, are the twomost popular ways of trellising kiwis, but feel free to experiment. The only requirement is that you’re ableto get to them to prune easily. Prune the vine back to a single cane andthat’s going to be our trunk. Like a grape vine, a kiwi vine should betrained with a nice straight trunk. I’m putting in this bamboo stake to helptrain my little vine. Don’t allow your kiwi to wrap around thestake however. Make sure and give your kiwi fruit a lot of water. I’m installing this Olson sprinkler, which works great.
Your hardy kiwi vine will produce fuzzless fruit a little smaller than what you find in the grocery store, and if you need to protect it from frost after it breaks dormancy, try these Agribon frost blanketsand Grow Organic for Life!.