My name is david handley, i’m with the university of maine cooperative extension, and we’re here to talk about how to prune and train a young grapevine. This is a vine that was planted last spring. We got it from a dormant plant, or rooted cutting, and you can see the original part of the planting right here. This is what we got from the nursery, with a good root system under it. We planted it, and we had a bud break and some vine growth. This is last year’s growth right here. This was a green shoot. Typically, you may get.
More than one shoot developing. you may have several buds on here. we want to prune this back to one strong vine, your strongest one. We’re going to arrange for that to be tied up to a trellis, because this particular vine is what’s going to become our permanent trunk, or the permanent part of the plant that’s going to be with us for the life of the planting. We want to make sure it’s the strongest of the vines that we can choose from. Any other one that developed that’s very weak, we can just cut that out, select our best one.
The time of year to make these cuts are when the canes are dormant, and this is going to be really any time after the new year, until they bud out in late March, early April. We hope in the first year that we get enough good growth that we can tie it to the lower trellis wire. Typically here in Maine, we’re going to be pruning to either a four arm kniffin training system, or an umbrella kniffin training system. Those trellises consist of two wires, one set at about two and a half feet, and a second.
Wire set at about five feet. we hope in the first year that we’re going to get enough good growth to reach at least the bottom wire, but in order to make sure it’s growing straight, you can see we supported this with a small bamboo pole. Any kind of planting stake will work, and we just tie that vine up as it grows, rather than let it grow along the ground where it can get rot problems, and not develop a nice straight growth like we want. We tie it up, just like you’d tie up a beef steak tomato, get the.
Growth that you want. as i said, we’ve got pretty good buds here, reaching up to the first wire. You can see that I actually make it to the top wire, but you can see the growth up here is very scrawny and spindly, and isn’t really going to lead to a good, strong trunk. I’d rather actually start new growth for reaching to this top wire for next year. What that means is that I’m actually going to cut this off here, rather low, to try to get this bud here to break and give me a much.
Stronger shoot to develop my trunk to the top wire next year. i can just take that there, and then, instead of using the bamboo pole this year, I can just tie it to the wire. This bud will hopefully break, and give me a good, strong shoot, that I’m going to reach the second wire next year. Of course, these buds lower down will also break, and if this one happens to be weak, I may select one of these. But, if this bud does turn out to be a strong shoot, I’ll be cutting these off next winter and getting my single trunk back.
Up to the top wire. next year, when this does reach the top wire, eventually what we’ll be doing is taking one year old cane, and either draping it over this top wire and connecting it to the bottom wire in an umbrella kniffin, or we’ll be taking one cane at the top wire on each side, and one cane at the bottom wire on each side, to create four arms of one year old growth, for a four\uc0\u8209 arm kniffin system. Both systems work pretty well for concrete type grapes here in a cold climate like Maine.
How to Prune Grapes Summer
Hi, i’m tricia, a california organic gardener and today we’re going to talk about summer maintenance for your table grapes we’ve had an extremely wet season this year and my table grapes have gone bonkers I’m growing four different types of table grapes here and there’s a lot of vegetative growth making for a very dense canopy over the grape vines earlier in the spring, the shoots were thinned when they were about six to twelve inches long.
You should have about six to eight shoots per foot of canopy at the same time as thinning the shoots, I also cut the suckers off at the trunk and i’m going to continue to trim these suckers throughout the season, as necessary you see there’s not enough sunlight getting into this little fruit clusters the sunlight is what helps improve the flavor and the quality of the fruit by having so much foliage around the cluster, I’m also at risk for disease.
The first step is to take these long shoots and tuck them into the trellising and keep them out of the fruiting zone that helped a lot but you can see there’s still a lot of hanging vines I’m going to trim back this shoot that has no clusters on it if you’re going to trim back a shoot that has clusters, be sure and leave about 1517 fullsized leaves before you make your cut.
Cut as little as possible and try to cut at the point where the leaves are half the size of the mature leaves these smaller leaves haven’t started producing food yet so the vine won’t miss them as much as it would miss these larger food producing leaves the grape vines are looking a lot better the cutting is going to stimulate the growth so you don’t want to do this too late in the season if the fruit is just beginning to ripen, it’s too late to cut.
Now that i’ve tamed the vines, it’s time to thin the fruit cluster thin when the fruit has just set and before it gets too big for goodsized table grapes leave one cluster per shoot in order to improve the size of the grapes, snip off the very bottom of the cluster I’m happy to have completed my summer maintenence on my table grape vines now I look forward to grape jam, grape jelly, grape juice, and those frozen grape treats.