Hi, i’m tricia, a california organic gardener and today we’re going to talk about summer maintenance for your table grapes we’ve had an extremely wet season this year and my table grapes have gone bonkers I’m growing four different types of table grapes here and there’s a lot of vegetative growth making for a very dense canopy over the grape vines earlier in the spring, the shoots were thinned when they were about six to twelve inches long.
You should have about six to eight shoots per foot of canopy at the same time as thinning the shoots, I also cut the suckers off at the trunk and i’m going to continue to trim these suckers throughout the season, as necessary you see there’s not enough sunlight getting into this little fruit clusters the sunlight is what helps improve the flavor and the quality of the fruit by having so much foliage around the cluster, I’m also at risk for disease.
The first step is to take these long shoots and tuck them into the trellising and keep them out of the fruiting zone that helped a lot but you can see there’s still a lot of hanging vines I’m going to trim back this shoot that has no clusters on it if you’re going to trim back a shoot that has clusters, be sure and leave about 1517 fullsized leaves before you make your cut.
Cut as little as possible and try to cut at the point where the leaves are half the size of the mature leaves these smaller leaves haven’t started producing food yet so the vine won’t miss them as much as it would miss these larger food producing leaves the grape vines are looking a lot better the cutting is going to stimulate the growth so you don’t want to do this too late in the season if the fruit is just beginning to ripen, it’s too late to cut.
Now that i’ve tamed the vines, it’s time to thin the fruit cluster thin when the fruit has just set and before it gets too big for goodsized table grapes leave one cluster per shoot in order to improve the size of the grapes, snip off the very bottom of the cluster I’m happy to have completed my summer maintenence on my table grape vines now I look forward to grape jam, grape jelly, grape juice, and those frozen grape treats.
Pruning Grape Vines
Hi, i’m tricia, an organic gardener. If you want bunches of grapes on your grapevines this summer, then you need to do your winter pruning. I’ll show you how! There are two types of pruning: cane and spur pruning. And both of them should be done late in the season, between January and March.
We’re gonna start with cane pruning, because all table grapes will be productive with that method. For cane pruning, I’m gonna choose one to two canes from last year’s growth on each side of the vine and I’m going to cut the rest! You can tell the age of a cane by its bark. 1yearold canes have smooth bark, older canes have shaggy bark.
When choosing which canes to keep, you’re gonna choose a cane that’s coming off very close to the trunk, as compared to one that’s coming off of a branch, like this. The canes that you keep should have about 15 buds along the length of the cane. And they should be close to the top of the vine. Don’t choose canes that are too thin or too thick. Choose them when they’re about pencil size.
I’m gonna tag the canes that i’m gonna keep with this ribbon, and i’m going to cut the rest. I want to make sure and not cut a good cane. These are the 2 fruiting canes that I’m going to keep. For every fruiting cane that I keep, I’m going to cut another cane into a renewal spur. A renewal spur is a cane cut to 2 buds and these buds are going to create next year’s fruiting canes. If your cut starts to bleed, don’t worry, that’s normal. It won’t hurt the vine.
After seeing how this vine is shaping up, i don’t think i need this cane after all. So you’re gonna cut your fruiting cane back to about 15 buds. And if you have any lateral branches coming off this cane, that’s the time you would cut them. For grape vines growing on arbors, the first thing you’re gonna do is cut off any suckers that are coming off the main vine or cordon. And then you just want to cane prune.
You want to keep one cane and one renewal spur for every 1 2 feet of cordon. This grapevine has been neglected and hasn’t been pruned in a couple of years. So, before I actually start the spur pruning, I’m going to clean it up. Typically, spur prune varieties are trained to a bilateral cordon, which are these thick branches on either side of the trunk. These cordons can be pruned to length, but they’re never pruned all the way off, back to the trunk.
Mine are maintained at about 3.5 feet. A spur is last year’s growth, cut back to 2 buds. Ideally, you’re gonna want 7 spurs on each cordon. And on this cordon, I’ll probably get close. On the other cordons, I’ll have to wait until next year because this vine was neglected. The canes that make the best spurs are the ones that are going upward, close to the cordon.