the mountain pride hybrid tomato is abig and delicious meaty tomato variety that is very diseaseresistant let’s seehow to grow this tomato variety in containers so in our earlier episodes we saw how togrow different kinds of tomatoes like grape tomatoes roma tomatoes thistime we’re gonna grow a tomato that’s a beefsteak kind of tomato these are huge tomatoesthat can be grown in containers if you follow the right techniques for thecontainer we’re using a whisky barrel which will provide enough room for this tomato plantto grow and remember that this
mountain pride hybrid is a determinatetomato variety which means that it will grow produce a lot of tomatoes and thenit will stop growing it won’t grow indefinitely like theindeterminate tomato varieties so that makes it a good candidate for growing incontainers and that’s exactly what you see here we have secured this tomatoplant with this tomato cage and if you want to take a look at all the tomato cagesavailable you can see this tutorial on your screen which will give you the detailsand in just a few days in the warm month of June you can see that the tomato planthas grown pretty well and has almost
occupied the entire whiskey barrel container Now this whiskey barrel container does contain a lot of soilit’s about two or three times the capacity of a fivegallon pot and thatgives a tomato plant enough room to grow and as you can see herr this plant hasnow started flowering and it’s about mid June right now and you can see alot of flowers being produced by this plant and there you can see that I havepruned this plant at some of the nodes the suckers have been removed and I dothis mostly for determinate tomato varieties and that too if I’m growingthem in containers if I’m growing the
tomato plants on the ground or onraised beds I do not prune the plant a lot but I do remove the diseased and the dead leaves so in about mid July you can see that the plant is loaded with fruits ofthese lovely looking tomatoes and if you think these tomatoes are bigwell just wait and see how big they can get now I’d like to mention that when growingtomatoes one of the keys to growing great tomatoes is to make sure that youprune all dead leaves, disease stems make sure that the bottom part of the tomato plantis clean this allows a lot of air to get in and it prevents fungal diseases foryour tomato plants and overall is a very
important step in growing tomatoessomething that a lot of us all overlook And as you can see here in August the tomatoes have startedripening they’ve started becoming red so I’m going to harvest this tomato fromthe plant and my first harvest is usually the one that I ripen on theshelf and what this does is that it lets me eat some tomatoes while the othertomatoes are ripening on the vine and once again the ones the ones ripening on thevine taste a lot better however if you
want some tomatoes go ahead and harvesta few you can put them on the shelves easily and use them And in the hot summer months you need to water your tomato plants very well tomatoes might need watering once a daysometimes even twice a day in the hot summer months so make sure that yourtomato plants hydrated or what will happen is that your fruits will startcracking from the bottom which is not a good thing for goodlooking tomatoes youneed to make sure that you water your
How to Prune Tomatoes for Earlier Harvests Higher Yields Healthier Plants
Today I’d like to share a few simple tomato pruning techniques for earlier harvests, higher yields, and healthier plants. It’s important to note up front that these techniques apply only to indeterminate tomatoes, which are vining tomatoes that keep growing and putting out new suckers, buds, and fruit until killed by frost. Determinate tomatoes, on the other hand, are bush tomatoes that usually don’t grow taller than 4 feet. Their fruit ripen at roughly the same time and then the plant dies. Pruning determinate plants will significantly reduce their yield and is not a good idea. Even indeterminate plants don’t have to be pruned, but we choose to for the reasons I’ll share in this tutorial. We grow our indeterminate tomatoes on trellises and space them only a foot apart.
Each sucker of an indeterminate tomato essentially produces a whole new plant, so pruning them makes this close spacing possible, and allows for adequate light penetration and air flow around plants. If we didn’t prune, the tomatoes would have to be 2 to 3 feet apart. Though pruning can reduce the yield per plant, it allows us to grow more plants in a given area, thereby increasing our overall yield. Removing the extra growth also focuses more of the plant’s energy on producing blossoms and ripening existing fruit, which can lead to an earlier harvest and larger fruit. We look to prune suckers that are developing below new blossoms.
Here you can see a blossom growing off the main stem at the top of the frame, and just below there’s a branch going off to the left and a sucker growing diagonally between the stem and the branch. This is what we want to prune. It’s best to prune suckers when they’re relatively small. Removing a more mature sucker would leave a larger wound, which could be more susceptible to infection. When identifying suckers, you can think of the sucker as an extra arm growing out of an armpit. The intersection between the main stem and the branch form the armpit,
and the sucker is the extra arm growing out of it. To combat early blight and keep our plants healthy, we also prune all the leaves that hang within a foot from the ground. Early bight is a fungus that colonizes on leaves and produces brown spots. It can eventually kill leaves and significantly reduce fruit production. Lower leaves are typically infected first due to their proximity to the ground. During rain storms, early blight spores in the soil can splash up and come into contact with leaves. Pruning the bottom leaves not only eliminates infected leaves and those likely to be infected,
it also increases light penetration and air flow, creating a less hospitable environment for the fungus. We typically do this pruning after the plants are at least 4 or 5 feet tall or we see infected leaves. Finally, some of the tomatoes are already taller than the 8 foot tall trellises. If I don’t top off the plants, they could very well be twelve feet tall by the first frost. Of course, they wouldn’t just keep growing straight up. Instead, they’d slouch over the top of the trellis and hang down over the rest of the plant,
which would create a tangled mess and increase the plants vulnerability to diseases. So, I’ll prune the plants just above the top of the trellis. This is a height I can comfortably reach and manage. Topping them off will also help the plants focus their energy on producing fruit, which is our ultimate goal after all. So, there you have it our simple pruning strategy for earlier harvests, higher yields, and healthier tomatoes. Well, that’s all for now.